A Grand Tour of the Grand Palace

Ever find yourself in the middle of thousands of people all pushing in the same direction, none of whose languages you speak, unable to read any of the sign posts, in 90+ degree heat and sunshine? No? Well if this is on your Bucket List, all you need do is come to Thailand's Grand Palace on a Saturday morning in April and your wish will be filled to overflowing.

As our taxi pulled up to the Grand Palace grounds and followed the circular road around to the front of the Grand Palace (or at least to within 200 yards of the entrance) we passed dozens of huge tour buses parked along the curbs. The closer we got to the entrance gate the larger the crowds became. And we could see the masses of people all being funneled through one small doorway opening in the wall surrounding the Palace.

Was it a bit disconcerting as we entered the human traffic jam? Yes. However, before we left Lampang, our dear friend and host, Dr. Nirund Jivasantikarn, had given us a letter in a sealed envelope with addressee notations written in Thai on its outside. He told us he would have his assistant call the Grand Palace and arrange for us to have a guide.  But as we merged with the sea of people all around us, the fact that we had a small white envelope seemed pretty insignificant.

Still, we pressed on, and given the flow of humanity we had little choice. As we passed through the entrance gate we saw a man dressed in a dark khaki uniform, so we approached him and showed him our envelope. He read the note on the front and immediately told us to continue through the big gate ahead of us and turn left at the end of the sidewalk. At the end of the walk we showed our envelope to another officer who asked to read the letter itself. He read it, smiled, and told us to go to the Information office about 20 feet away. We knocked on the door and were immediately greeted by another smiling officer who invited us inside. He took our letter and began filling out information on a form which he asked me to sign. He said, "Only five?" (Our letter had indicated there would be six of us). We said, "Yes, five." He responded, "Six. Too much paperwork to change to five." So we said, "Right. Six!"


He told us his name was Jeffrey and he was to be our guide to the Grand Palace and the Emerald Buddha. We were delighted.  His English was excellent, his knowledge of the Grand Palace was superb, and he led us through the crowds like a downfield blocker often stopping to take photos of us with our cameras (waving his arm to the crowds so they would stand back).


 








We were charged no entrance fee to the Grand Palace nor did we pay the price for a guide. (We did give him a significant gift three hours later when he bid us good bye.)

Jeffrey told us that the exterior of this spire is covered with a mosaic made from broken teacups.

   
Nirund had told us to be certain to see the Emerald Buddha which is housed in its own temple on the grounds of the Grand Palace. We had seen its replica at a temple in Lampang where it had remained for 32 years before being brought to Bangkok. Unfortunately, no photographs are allowed in the Emerald Buddha's temple.

Jeffrey told us that the statue (only 26 inches in height) is not actually emerald but green Jade.  Still, a fascinating piece of Southeast Asian history.

This is one of Jeffrey's photos. The building we are standing in front of was built as a replica of Buckingham Palace but when it was completed the Thai king decided it needed to have a Thai look and so had a Thai tower  added.  Today, this palace is only used for state dinners.

We concluded our visit to the Grand Palace by touring Queen Sirikit's museum which, in addition to displaying designer clothing and photographs of the Queen's world travels in the 1960's and 70's, is presently holding an exhibit of gifts and letters between the kings of Thailand and U.S. Presidents dating all the way back to President James Monroe.  The letters, photographs, and gifts are from the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C. and have never been assembled in one location before and especially never back in Thailand. Again no photographs were permitted; but a fascinating look at the long history of Thai-America relations.

A truly wonderful morning in this fascinating place!